In a sector report published on 12th October, Kiwoom Securities forecast that South Korean cosmetics exports — widely marketed under the "K-beauty" banner — will rise from $11.4bn in 2025 to $16.4bn by 2027, implying a compound annual growth rate of 19%. That comfortably outpaces the global beauty market's expected annual growth of around 5%.

The brokerage assigned an Overweight rating to the cosmetics sector. Its top pick is APR (KRX: 278470), the maker of the Medicube skincare brand, with a buy recommendation and a target price of 500,000 won. Silicon2 (KRX: 257720), a K-beauty export distributor, is its second-ranked pick, with a target price of 58,000 won.

South Korea overtakes America

Korea has, according to the report, already surpassed the United States in 2025 to become the world's second-largest cosmetics exporter, trailing only France. From 2022 to 2025, Korean cosmetics exports grew at an average annual rate of 13%, well ahead of France (8%), Germany (4%), and the United States (1%) over the same period. Despite this momentum, K-beauty's share of the global beauty market stands at only 4.6%, suggesting considerable room to grow.

The engine of that growth is geographic diversification. By the third quarter of 2026, cumulative exports to North America had already reached $2.46bn, Europe $1.83bn, and Latin America $280m — each figure surpassing the full-year 2025 total for the respective region. Kiwoom projects that by 2027, North America will account for $4.3bn of exports, Europe $3.8bn, and Latin America $600m.

Taken together, these three regions represent 54% of the global beauty market — roughly 4.5 times the size of China's single market, which accounts for about 12%. That distinction matters enormously to investors familiar with K-beauty's troubled recent history.

Learning from the China débâcle

Between 2014 and 2021, the Korean cosmetics industry enjoyed what Kiwoom calls its "first golden age," driven almost entirely by sales through Chinese duty-free shops and cross-border traders known as daigou. At the peak, China and duty-free channels together accounted for 59% of combined revenues at Amorepacific and LG Household & Health Care, the two dominant Korean beauty conglomerates. When diplomatic tensions over the deployment of a US missile-defence system (THAAD) soured relations with Beijing, daigou traders were cracked down upon, and Chinese consumer spending softened, profitability collapsed with alarming speed. Concentration in a single country and a handful of channels was the fatal flaw.

The current expansion looks structurally sounder. A new generation of independent ("indie") brands — Skin1004 (Joseonmiinyeo), Anua, and Medicube among them — built audiences on TikTok before converting that viral following into top-ranked listings on Amazon. Physical retail has followed: these brands are now expanding into ULTA Beauty, Target, and Walmart. As of 5th October, Korean brands had placed products in the top 100 beauty listings on Amazon in the United States (14 products), Germany (15), France (16), and Spain (18).

The ODM advantage

Kiwoom attributes much of K-beauty's agility to South Korea's sophisticated ODM (original design manufacturer) ecosystem, in which specialist contract manufacturers handle both formulation and production. Brands can bring novel ingredients or textures to market in as little as two to three months, without maintaining their own research facilities or factories. The number of licensed cosmetics marketers in Korea rose roughly sixfold, from 4,853 in 2014 to 28,412 in 2025 — a sharp contrast to Japan, where the ratio of manufacturers to marketers has remained roughly one-to-one throughout the same period.

Macroeconomic conditions are also playing to K-beauty's strengths. The University of Michigan's consumer sentiment index stood at 48.1 in September 2026, far below its long-run average of 83.8. Europe's consumer confidence index was similarly depressed at -16.5. When households are cautious about spending, products that offer prestige-brand efficacy at accessible prices gain appeal — precisely the "masstige" positioning that K-beauty brands have carved out for themselves.

Risks worth watching

Kiwoom is candid about the risks. A stronger Korean won could squeeze margins at companies that derive most of their revenues abroad: APR generated 92% of its sales overseas in the second quarter of 2026, making it particularly sensitive to currency movements. Early-stage expansion into Europe also requires upfront investment in logistics and marketing before returns materialise.

The indie-brand model carries its own vulnerabilities. Brands that rise on viral social media content can fade just as quickly, introducing meaningful earnings volatility. Europe and Latin America present additional complications: distribution regulations and retail structures vary significantly by country, making market entry slower and more fragmented than in North America. Brazil is a particular case in point — its health regulator, ANVISA, imposes stringent approval requirements, and foreign firms without a local incorporated entity find it difficult to access the main retail chains directly.

Valuation

Kiwoom's bull case for APR rests on a valuation gap. The firm forecasts earnings-per-share growth of approximately 36% in 2027 — among the highest of any global beauty peer — yet APR trades at just 19 times 2027 estimated earnings. By comparison, Swiss dermatology group Galderma commands a multiple of around 30 times on a similar growth trajectory, while e.l.f. Beauty and L'Oréal trade at 30 times and 26 times respectively, despite lower forecast earnings growth.

For Silicon2, Kiwoom sees its share of total K-beauty exports rising from 6.9% in 2025 to 8.9% by 2027.

At the sector level, the 12-month forward price-to-earnings multiple for Korean cosmetics stocks currently sits below 16 times, which Kiwoom argues fails to reflect the record earnings-per-share levels the industry is now achieving.

As with any single-broker analysis, these projections should be weighed alongside other perspectives and stress-tested against the obvious external risks: currency volatility, shifts in global consumer confidence, and evolving regulations in each target market.